I started by reading up on what it takes, what steps to follow, do's and don'ts, forums, FAQs, etc. It seemed pretty simple, the only tools I needed my dad had for me to borrow (drill, rasp, sand paper---Thanks Bob!) and the rest I could make or improvise. All that was needed were the components which are exceedingly available thanks to the internet. Though shopping around for custom parks was definitely the most fun, it was also really overwhelming to choose from so many sources. A checklist was definitely a must, but be sure to double check all of your sizes.
I chose my blank, the sections of tapered graphite which all other components are fastened to, from a domestic company called Batson Enterprises. They're a relatively small company that produces a wide range of blanks and building kits for cheap, but they don't lack quality. Though they are a little heavier and slower action than top of the line makers like G. Loomis or Sage, you can't beat $80 for a 10 & 1/2 foot switch blank with a sexy flat black finish, especially for my first rod (Spoiler alert: I think it cast really nicely).
The first step was "finding the spine" of the blank. Every blank has a naturally stiffer side to them which makes a difference in the rods casting a fish fighting ability, thus this side is called the spine. Finding it was easier than I thought and just by taking my time and following some instructions I had the spine all mapped out. However, whether to place the spine either along the back of the rod or along the front is still up for debate and seems to be a matter of preference. My rod's spine runs down its back, it just seems like the natural choice (for a chordate).
The next step was building the cork grip. Since switch rods are used both for two handed casting and single handed casting, they use a pretty unique grip system. The few pre-made switch grips that were offered online didn't appeal to me so I opted to make my own form a full-wells grip and 7 stock cork rings. You can see in the pictures how I've cut the full-wells grip in half and sandwiched the rings in between them. I made a simple press to keep all the parts from moving while the glue dried. Also, I decided to build the grip directly onto the blank for a better fit, but I was running the risk of making a mistake and ruining my blank.
Thankfully everything went well and I have a custom shaped grip for one or both of my hands.
Next up was spacing the guides, the little loops of wire that "guide" the line down the length of the
rod. I found the measurements online, but basically you want one guide for every foot of your rod plus one. I have a 10.5 foot rod and the spacing chart I used gave me the distances for 10 guides plus the tip top (a total of 11). In the picture is a thread wrapping stand a made (glorified shoe box) holding a section of my blank. The section has guides taped to it at the appropriate intervals.
Thats a wrap! Seriously, it is. Thread is wound over the foot of the guide and finished in simple, knotless way that gives a seamless appearance to...a wrap. There are many styles of wrapping that can give a rod extra flare, but I thought I'd save those till next time. To keep tension on the thread you can either buy ($$$) a fancy spring loaded thread holding that has a variable tension knob, or you can run your thread through a large book. The friction of the pages is enough to hold the tension and to can adjust it by running the thread through different chapters of the book. Wraps not tight enough? Try chapter 8, to tight? Bring it back a few, try chapter 6.
Once all the wrapping is done, you have to make sure the guides are all alligned with each other and with the spine.
Sighting down the blank through the guides is one of the best ways to see this step.
Then its time to finish the rod, literally. After adding a hook keeper, a few fancy gold wraps, my name and a few other labels, I covered all the wraps with a special flexible epoxy finishing glue. The glue has a long curing time so I had to keep rotating each section every 15 minutes for 3 hours or bulges would develop.
The last step was to glue on the reel seat and rear grip. For the rear grip I decided to use a 4 inch tapered grip that was sold as a fore grip for a spinning rod but it works perfectly for my needs. The only thing I would have liked to do was add half an inch of EVA foam to protect the butt end, but I forgot to order it. I used the reel seat's butt instead. Presto! In 3 days a made myself a great new rod which I love casting and has opened up some new fishing opportunities to me. The new member of my arsenal:
I thought it was appropriate to show it in its new environment. I never named it but I was thinking of something like Duet, Duo, or Les Duex since its meant for two types of casting, but I thought those were too boring so I put it off. Comment your suggestions please!
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