Thursday, December 13, 2012

Nelson Lakes National Park, Lake Rotoroa to Lake Rotoiti

Again, we are not exactly following a true path along our through hike and we have found ourselves wondering south in the general direction of Te Araroa. 
We hitched two easy rides from Westport to Lake Rotoroa, then shared a water taxi across the lake with two fellow fly fisherman. As we arrived at the lakefront hut, we quickly realized that we were heading out on a weekend and the place was crawling with locals. Well, not exactly crawling, but we were the only international trampers among about a half dozen kiwi hunters and fishermen.

The next few days were spent between huts and rivers, fishing and playing cards. Robin and Warren, two kiwi fly fisherman that shared the D'Urville with me, were a pleasure to enjoy the area with. We will never forget their kindness and generosity for shuttling us across part of the lake it their little boat, sharing beer, port, and "nibbles," and late nights of giggles and eucher. Thanks guys!

We departed Lake Rotoroa and headed out towards St. Arnaud via speargrass hut and Angelus hut. The next few days were drastically varied, changing from dense beach to subalpine bogs, tussock, and alpine lakes and ridges. Some of the days were very challenging and exposed but the views were well worth the effort.
Lake Rotoroa from D'Urville hut. Several days of heavy rain and snow put on a dazzling show as the clouds parted.
Meadow flowers

In the grassy plains of the D'Urville. Our next hut lies some 8km up the valley behind us.

First D'Urville brown taken on a dry emerger. ~6lbs and spanning nearly to the first guide on my rod.

An Ansel Adams moment as light rains began to fall.

First fish spotted the next morning and I was selected to make the first go (no pressure). A few casts later and my kiwi friend Warren brought this hog to shore is his net.
This accidental penis tree had one big ball, we thought of you, Trevor.
As we gained altitude along the Speargrass Route, we suddenly emerged into this alpine bog filled with stunted beech and amazing views. A well built board walk carried us over the sensitive habitat for nearly a mile and included this nice bench about halfway. We enjoyed the views and so will Aliyah's dad and my aunt.

Another board walk carried us to Speargrass hut situated in a tussock meadow. We climbed up the valley behind the hut to reach Angelus Hut.

Resting after a short, steep, and frightening ascent. Not a bad view looking back towards Speargrass hut.
Off trail through tussock!

After climbing to the top of the ridge we felt on top of the world.

Sunrise near Angelus Hut looking into the Travers valley. We first met this swiss girl on the first day of the Queen Charlotte track and three weeks later we arrive at the same place at the same time.

Sunrise

Lake Angelus

Lake Angelus and the hut (photo above and below), a 36 bunker with cozy fire place, benched and covered deck and views from every window.


Climbing Robert's Ridge away from Lake Angelus

Peering over the ridge into the valley towards speargrass. The ridge visible in the photos of the climb from spear grass is the one we are on.

A very exposed traverse along the ridge, the clouds aiding the dramatic approach.

Conquered: fears and ridges!

Time to relax and enjoy the view. We also enjoyed a hefty portion of cheese cake gifted to us by a guided tour group.



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